Friday, October 4, 2013

An evening to remember - Danseuse and Goddess, Mallika Sarabhai

Today, I bore witness to something so elegant, so wondrous, so intellectually appealing, and so powerful, that putting it into words is not ever giving it enough justice. I am blessed to have seen a Goddess - Mallika Sarabhai - perform the most wonderful theater act that I have ever seen. 

Lucky that Nishtha read the newspaper today and found out that Mallika Sarabhai was performing today at her family's own, the Natarani Theatre, at the Darpana Academy of Performing Arts (DAPA). Established by her mother, the famous danseuse Mrinalini Sarabhai, and her father, the Father of Indian Space Program, Vikram Sarabhai in 1949, the DAPA is a school for performing arts in Ahmedabad; its departments ranging from performance and teaching of the arts, to the use of performance and arts as development communication, through face-to-face impact. Mallika herself has been Director here for more than 30 years now. 

We reached the Natarani Theatre, unsure of whether we would get passes for this act, given that Mallika Sarabhai herself was performing. The crowd had come in numbers, and frankly I have not seen such a great crowd in Ahmedabad before this. The crème de la crème of society were in attendance, all eager to get the best seats possible at the amphitheater. 

As an interesting side-incident, we were about to buy the INR 200 passes, when a young lady who was right there at the counter intervened. She said she had a couple of extra passes and that we could have them. I pulled out money from my wallet to pay her, but she refused, saying that she herself got them complimentary and would not take any money. We thanked her profusely and went inside, beaming with joy at our luck in finding a good samaritan. The world is not empty of such people indeed.

We took seats at the top flight of stairs at the amphitheater, and had a great view of the entire place. The stage had a black curtain backdrop, with many expression masks kept at various places on the stage. The wooden floor of the stage at the bottom of the amphitheater were a deep oak brown, the rear end of which had the music instruments for the act. 

People poured in, and in about 10 minutes, the entire amphitheater was packed to the brim - I estimated a good 250 people in the audience. The musicians walked out on stage, and took their positions. 

Then grace, beauty and elegance themselves came on the stage in the form of Mallika Sarabhai. Never have I seen an individual with the aura of grandiose splendor like her. She came, took the centre of the stage, bowed and greeted us with a Namaste, the whole crowd applauding her.

"I have a confession to make," she started. "For all those of you who have come to see a Bharatnatyam recital, the exit doors are still open. I am not here to do a recital, but to talk to you about a woman called Sita."

Not a single soul stirred from their seats. 

Mallika talked about how she started performing this act in 1990, when she was still pregnant with her second child, a daughter, and how she did it across over 40 countries for the next 8 years. But that given the current state of India, and how dangerous it is to be a woman in India right now, this act makes more sense and needs more spreading today than ever before. 

The next 45 minutes were easily the most captivating moments I've been in, in a long time. Mallika went through her performance like a hot knife through butter. Every single moment, every single word, every single action, every single music note, every single high and low of the act - gripping, powerful and enthralling. The act in itself is a contradiction against every train of thought, every thread of perspective that we have held over the generations. Sita is no longer demure, obedient and sacrificing; but is angry, dejected and rebellious. She calls Lord Rama shameful, and questions his power, his omniscience, and his Godliness. 

The act depicts the Ramayana from Sita's perspective, the battle of a teacher against her rapist, of a doctor against female foeticide, of a Krishna devotee (Meera) against society and family. This one-woman act is a celebration of a woman's power, courage and bravery to rebel against social dogmas, against societal pressures, and against familial exploitation. It showcases the connection between a woman and nature, between a devotee and her God, and between a child and its mother.

The act ended and I could breathe. Till that point of time, I was unaware of my senses, my feelings, whether the person sitting next to me was still there or not. I had lost track of time, and was in raptures of awe, delight, agony, ecstasy, joy and anger. Mallika Sarabhai kept me hooked, and I did not blink even once. Her grace of movement, the diction of her speech, the meaning of her words, the expressions on her face - graceful, charming, elegant and sophisticated. I have never been so enthralled by a performance in my life. 

Like all good things, the act ended too soon. Mallika waved to a standing ovation by the whole crowd, all of whom were emotionally stirred and overwhelmed. She exited the stage, suddenly the whole aura of brilliance faded and normalcy was restored. But this normalcy was now a void. Mallika Sarabhai had awakened a torrent of emotions in all of us, and even the most stoic and staid personalities must have felt a small tug at their minds - mine said, "Don't go, Mallika. The world is a dreary place without you, like a photo without colours, a photo that would be pleasing to the eye only if it had colours."

We returned home later this night, only to be lost in our own thoughts of this evening - an act worthy of applause, a danseuse worthy of ovation, and a lady worthy of adulation. 

Thank you, Mallika Sarabhai.

- Vinaykrishnan and Nishtha.

Saturday, August 24, 2013

Mandu - A weekend getaway in the Heart of Incredible India

There's a popular new advertisement making the rounds on television and on the social media arenas of FB, Twitter and Youtube. It's by the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Board, tagging themselves the Heart of Incredible India.

One of the places mentioned in this ad is Mandu, near Indore. Mandu ke dekho bhavya mahal (See the grand palaces of Mandu) AND Mandu main mahal dekhne aaye, Jahaaz dekha chakkar khaaye (Came to see the palace in Mandu, went loopy after seeing the Ship) goes the tagline. This, coupled by a few good reviews from friends, prompted us to take a quick trip to this hill station in Madhya Pradesh.

About 50 miles from the city of Indore in the state of Madhya Pradesh, Mandu or Mandav, is a fortress town off the highway. From Ahmedabad, we took a bus to Indore late in the evening, and in about 7 hours, we were at the city of Dhar. The district of Dhar contains Mandu, and buses from Dhar to Mandu ply every hour starting from dawn till dusk.

The first thing that hits you about Mandu is the huge walls of the fortresses, and the gates through which the road snakes up the hills. The gates are splendid, huge and pretty much intact, given that the town's monuments have a documented history of more than 800 years. The bus trudged along the spirals, each gear straining for that extra bit of energy, hoping to make it to the top.

And finally we did. In about an hour's time from Dhar, we were at the bus stand in Mandu, which also happens to be the central square of the town. Home to the rather grand Jami Masjid (Gathering Mosque), this central square comes to life in the morning itself, with lots of small tea and snack stalls, a few cigarette and tobacco stalls, a couple of small eateries and a few grocery stores. The Victory Monument standing opposite the Jami Masjid here was built after the Mughals became victorious over Baz Bahadur, who used to be ruler of the Mandu region.

Jami Masjid - Town Square at Mandu


The weather is the highlight of the place. There is no real concept of "hot" in Mandu. You're always amongst clouds, mist and little bouts of rain that continually keep your clothes damp, but never let you feel hot or tired. There is this zing of energy in the air. You feel like you can climb mountains, walk for miles and swim across rivers, without stopping. Top class, especially if you make the trip from some place like Ahmedabad, which a lot of people are asking to be renamed to "B-l-o-o-d-y H-o-t".

We got down at the bus stand at around 7:45 AM and walked about half a kilometre to our hotel. Hotel is a very very uppity word for the place. Ajooba's is basically a 3-room structure, with mattresses laid out in each. Owned by a small family, Ajooba's is pretty much one of the cheapest options here, at INR 100 a night per person. With a common bathroom and toilet, it isn't grand, but is functional.

Ajooba sits on a chair out in the front, a beedi (rolled Indian  cigarette) in one hand and a newspaper in the other, welcoming people to his place. We reach to find him immediately getting a couple of chairs for us to sit, and ordering tea and water for the tired travelers.

At Ajooba's


He informs us that there was a grand party there the previous night, which pretty much lasted into the wee hours of the morning. All our friends had reached a day before us, and all of them were pretty much dead asleep. We sat for a while, had a cup of tea each, and then slowly the first of our friends started to wake up.

We met all of these folks, and then started our day. Over the two days, we roamed a lot, partied a lot, and basically chilled out in the awesome weather. We saw a lot of wonderful sights, I'm going to list out 4 of these that we went to, and spent most time at.

1. The Rupmati Pavilion:
Baz Bahadur, the last independent ruler of Mandu, fell in love with a singing shepherdess, Rupmati, who was also adept at poetry. They married and came to Mandu, where, on Rupmati's wish, Baz Bahadur had the Rupmati Pavilion built, so that Rupmati could see both her beloveds - Baz Bahadur and River Narmada - from the same place.

On the way to Rupmati Pavilion

The Rupmati Pavilion served as the military outpost of the Manu kingdom as well. Adham Khan, a general in the army of Mughal King Akbar, made war on Mandu, partly due to Akbar's orders, but mainly due to his interest in Rupmati. He defeated Baz Bahadur in Mandu, while Rupmati witnessed this from her pavilion. When Adham Khan came to claim Rani Rupmati, she chose to consume poison than succumb to this villain's desires.

Thus what began in poetry, music and beauty, and was an epic tale of romance, ended in a tragic tale of lust, war and death.


The North & South Pavilion Towers


From the south pavilion, the Narmada River was visible (not when we were there though, due to the clouds and mist). From the north pavilion, the entire Malwa plateau is visible. The whole monument is grand. We particularly noticed one thing about all the monuments here - there are no intricate carvings, unlike palaces or forts in places like Udaipur. But all the monuments in themselves are grand, well planned, well-ventilated, and fit to be the assembly courts of grand kings of old.

2. Baz Bahadur Palace:
Just about a quarter of a mile down the road from the Rupmati Mahal, I have never seen a palace so well ventilated. Like the rest of the monuments at Mandu, the Baz Bahadur palace too lacks intricate carvings or ornamentation, but the sheer size of the palace makes up for it. This palace was built in A.D. 1508, by Nasirud-Din, but Baz Bahadur took a fancy to it and made it his own abode - especially due to it's proximity to the Rupmati Pavilion.

A view of the Baz Bahadur Palace from Rupmati's Pavilion


It's highlight is a pool in the central courtyard; water reflects the sky and the nearby pillars, highlighting the architectural wonders of even that era.

The pool in the central courtyard at Baz Bahadur Palace

Reflections

Close to this place is the Rewa Kund, which is a water reservoir built by Baz Bahadur to supply water to the Rupmati Palace. The Rewa Kund is a highly revered place now, with a lot of people coming here for bathing and prayers.

Rewa Kund


3. Jahaaz Mahal (Ship Palace)
Probably the most popular place in Mandu, and surely the biggest, the Jahaaz Mahal (Ship Palace) stands true to its name. Built in the shape of a ship between two water bodies of Munja and Kapur tanks, this palace was built by the pleasure-loving ruler, Sultan Ghiyasud-Din, somewhere in the late A.D. 1400s. This palace served as the harem for his personal treasure, what is rumored to be thousands of women!

The Front View of the Jahaaz Mahal

The view of the Jahaaz Mahal from the entrance

Not only is the shape of the palace rather unique, it also boasts of wonderful gardens, a long terrace walkway and a well-maintained lake surrounding it. We were glad to see the maintenance done well, and even people were throwing litter only in dustbins.

The view of the lake and gardens at Jahaaz Mahal

On the terrace of the Jahaaz Mahal


Across


We also saw the swimming pools where the harem women would sit and bathe and the Sultan would see them daily. No wonder he was known to be such a pleasure-loving person! Imagine, walking around that well, a beautiful woman sitting on each step, all eager to look their best for their Sultan; how elated must he have felt every morning!


A Water Filtration Drain for the Pool of the Jahaaz Mahal


The Swimming Pool of the Jahaaz Mahal Palace where women of the harem would sit on the steps and bathe


Jahaaz Mahal is also more tourist-conducive, given that it offers drinking water and toilet facilities throughout the whole complex, has a galore of eateries and food stalls right outside its gates, including one "Lunch Pad", which by the way has very British chairs and tables under a huge shady tree. Perfect for a sunny day.

4. Sunset Point (Sooryaast Bindu):
The last place that I want to write about is the Sunset Point. This is easily the finest sunset point that I have seen, and I have seen many across India.

It's on the edge of one of the Tabletops of the Malwa plateau, about a kilometer from the Town Center. But I recommend not going to the actual sunset point. Before you hit the entrance of the Sunset Point, take a left. A narrow path leads to a small water body that you can walk around and come to the edge of the hill. The whole hill is covered with grass this time of the year, except the rocky outcrops, where we all sat down, beer and rum giving us company in the wonderful weather. The rain, accompanied by gusts of strong winds, abruptly appear - they make you get up, take shelter behind a tree nearby, and then disappear. This probably happens every 20 minutes. Every minute there is worth it as you soak in the entire valley in front of you, a green-land in the center, covered on the left and the right by tabletops of the plateau.

A View from the Sunset Point

Far on the right, you see a small waterfall from the top of the hill, crashing into a small pond, and then continuing further to the bottom of the hill.

See the thin line of the waterfall on the right?

That's where we sit and relax :-)

These are the places that we visited this time on our visit to Mandu. There are still a lot of palaces and ruins left in Mandu that we have to explore. Apart from the tiring bus ride from Ahmedabad to Dhar/Mandu, and an untoward accident on our way back home, (the bus crashed into the side railings of the road due to a flat tire - no one was hurt), Mandu was satisfying and we are left craving for more of it.

Mandu is that perfect place to unwind after a long week of work.Take a car, drive with a couple of friends to Mandu, stay at a a nice place, have some beer, sit at Sunset Point, take in the sights. Mandu is the kind of place that you can go to again and again, and not tire of it at all.

Mandu is definitely at the Heart of Incredible India.

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

My secret - You

I'm going to let you in on something,
Something that only I know,
It's not common knowledge,
And it may not be something
That will endure
For ages to come in people's minds.

But it is that which is as much part of me,
And as much because of You,
That which is the result of this poor life,
Of immaturity, poor decisions and unspeakable vices;
But that which is forever mine,
And forever yours.

My secret is 
That I've now lost to you after playing
These childish games.
And that any more games are just fake.

My secret is also 
That I am burnt by the world, by God, by myself;
I want to stop and heal myself,
And that only your words can be my balm.

My secret is also
That I have only made my life a prayer
From being in love with you,
And that every other spoken word is not endorsed by love.

My secret is also
That empowered by your love, I don't want to fall anymore,
I want to rise. 
And that too only rise the way your head rises from prayer.

My secret is also
That my arms have the habit now
Of feeling your breath on me,
And that anything else is a false promise of hope, love or joy.

You are my secret.
You are all that is left of me. 
 
You are now all that I am.

Nothing else.

- Vinaykrishnan.

Monday, February 18, 2013

On Udaipur, Great Friends and a First Anniversary

Last week, Nishtha and I celebrated our first anniversary together. We took our first vacation in a long, long time. Wanting to plan an economy budget trip, we decided to go somewhere close by - some place that does not require too much travel, and that would also have cheap avenues of stay and food. And then it hit us - Udaipur. It is only about 5 hours by road from Ahmedabad and has lots of great, inexpensive places where we could go and stay in, without burning holes in our pockets. 

Enter Jyoti and Sanal. And a hefty sponsorship for our vacation. A First Anniversary gift to us.

We love such friends!!! It still doesn't sink it - that elation of such an awesome gift from you guys! :) :)

I am eager to show you where we stayed (courtesy, J&S - thank you darlings, you guys are fantastic), but first, let me tell you something about Udaipur. It's a quaint little town, nestled in a tiny valley among the Aravali ranges. The hills themselves are not gigantic, considering that I've seen the Himalayas, but they do seem to have a certain lofted personality of their own, to say so.


The Aravali Hills - A view of the hills from atop Sajjangarh Monsoon Palace

Udaipur is not very big, but it has many attractions for visitors. We had a good time visiting many of the palaces and museums in the city. The principal attraction there, the City Palace and Museum is a grand monument built along the shore of the Lake Pichhola, an artificial lake created centuries ago by a Banjara - a wandering nomad tribal. After seeing this lake, the then ruling Mewar King, Maharana Udai Singh ordered the City Palace to be built here and thus was founded Udaipur.

So, when we reached here, owing to the great boom in our budget, we decided to park camp at a tent resort, called The Aravali Tent Resort. A first experience of living in a tent resort, where the tents have electricity, television, air conditioning and a nice tiled bathroom.


Outside our tent at the Aravali Tent Resort
Outside our Tent at the Aravali Resort
The resort manager tried his best to see that we were comfortable, though I must say I did expect a bit more from the service. Overall, I'd rate the resort a 4/5 for stay, and a 3/5 for service. And oh, a 5/5 for the bonfires that Nishtha and I thoroughly enjoyed a couple of nights. 


Bonfire outside the tent

We visited a lot of places there in Udaipur, but it was more of a relaxing vacation than a "let's see everything today" kind. Nishtha and I are lazy when we're on vacation, and we'd rather flop on the bed and watch TV than go out and roam too much. A few hours of sightseeing, a couple of hours of good cafe food and some cold beer, and long hours of sleep and TV is more how we like it.

Our very first day in Udaipur will stay in our heads and hearts for a very long time. We went to this cafe called Pushkar Cafe, on the first floor of a small shop in the crowded and narrow street of Gangaur Ghaat. And we stepped into an oasis. The walls are painted with lovely paintings of Ganesha, Shiva from Indian Gods, and also along the other walls are paintings by many travelers who've taken a breather here.The food is ordinary here. But the service is good, the owner (Pushkar, who's marriage anniversary is a day after mine) is warm and welcoming, and the beer is cold.


At Pushkar Cafe

Ganesha the Wise


But this is not why we shall remember the place. During the course of our lunch there, I was writing a little something in a diary (remind me to post that poem here too), and Pushkar thought I was painting. He asked me if I was, and that if I wanted to, I could paint something on his walls for him. I immediately looked at Nishtha, and with a little coaxing, she was there, all set with paint brushes, colors and a determined look. 

It took a rough pencil drawing, an eraser, an intense discussion on what to paint, and one more rough drawing to finally setup what we thought would be perfect for the place. And Nishtha did it again - she drew and painted the Matsya Nyaya picture perfect to the T. 

Painting Her Heart Out

Matsya Nyaya - The Law Of The Jungle

Matsya Nyaya - The Law Of The Jungle

The Artist's Signature

So now when any of you go to Udaipur, do check out this painting by Nishtha at the Pushkar Cafe, and think of us when you do. 

A lot more happened, many more places were visited, I'll leave the rest in just pictures. Some nice, some not so nice, but all definitely ones that Nishtha and I won't forget. And we've kept a few places in Udaipur pending, so that we may go back there some day. And relive the first of many anniversaries to come.

Happy 1st Anniversary Nishtha, my love. 


Lake Pichhola at Sunset - JagMandir in the middle of the lake

An outhouse near the Sajjangarh Monsoon Palace

The Bagore Ki Haveli (Palace of Bagore) on the banks of the Pichhola

Sajjangarh Monsoon Palace

Captured

From the Top

How small the world.

Far into the distance my heart lies


- Vinaykrishnan.

Friday, January 4, 2013

About Opinions

To have an opinion about something, is to be human. Every human has opinions.

To have an opinion that could potentially improve or change something, and to not express it, is selfish.

To have an opinion that could potentially improve or change something, and to express it, is benevolent.

To have an opinion that is useless, and to not express it, is wise.

To have an opinion that is useless, and to express it, is stupid.

- Vinaykrishnan.